As people who claim to know anything about Italian cooking, it is not hard to imagine how we ended up in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy on our trip after loving the food and culture in the Amalfi Coast and the Tuscan wineries and restaurants. The Emila-Romagna is an area many famous Italian chefs, including Mario Batali, herald as one of the food capitals of the world.  The Emilia-Romagna, a rather wealthy area of Italy, is home to Bologna, a city that is responsible for both Bolognese sauce, which Italians call ragu, and to the cold cut that shares its name, which Italians call mortadella.  West of Bologna you will find Parma, home to the famous Parmigiana Reggiano cheese and to Prosciutto de Parma.  Between these two cities lies Modena, the birthplace of Balsamic vinegar.  With all of these culinary highlights, it is a wonder we didn’t spend our whole trip here!

Of all of the wonderful offerings of this region, I intend to dedicate the remainder of this post to just one room, in a tiny osteria in the city of Modena, hidden in the back of a little market, containing only four beautifully set tables, in which Adrian and I were served what must be the best meal we have ever eaten.  We would have never in a million years found this jewel of a restaurant had we not been led there by Mario Batali’s online guide to traveling in Italy.  His praise for the restaurant claims that if you are to travel to any one place in Italy, “it must be here.”  High marks from an iron chef who has made his career studying and preparing authentic Italian cuisine.  So we heeded his advice, and we went there.  And “there” was the highlight of our whole trip.

The market that sits in front of this hidden restaurant is called Macelleria de Guisseppe Guisti.  It is a small little market with an amazing selection of cured meats, cheeses, and jarred goods, as well as a nice variety of balsamicos. There is also a cafe next door, but don’t mistake this for the real jewel, which we only found when Adrian questioned the man servicing the meat counter about “l’hosteria?”.  The man replied, “si, si” and shuffled us behind the counter, through swinging doors and a dim hallway into a room that couldn’t have been more than ten meters in width and length.  It contained only four tables, two of which were occupied.  He seated us, and we smiled at each other victoriously, glad we hadn’t had much of a breakfast.

Our waitress, who we soon learned was the great, if not the great-great granddaughter of Guisseppe himself, spoke enough English to give us some insight into the menu and to recommend a local Lambrusco, a sparkling red wine, served chilled, that locals drink with everything.

Our plan of attack, since it was around one in the afternoon, was to just go for a big lunch and not have to eat for the rest of the day, if ever!  So we decided on sharing an antipasti, each ordering a primi piatti, and splitting a secondi.   For the first course we decided on a seasonal dish, a zucchini blossom, stuffed with simple risotto, dipped in a batter, fried to perfection, and drizzled (of course) with an aged balsamic vinegar.  It was absolutely divine.    The risotto stuffing was perfectly al dente and undoubtedly seasoned with Parmigiana, and the flavor of the zucchini blossom was the star of the dish.

For our pasta course, we went with one seasonal and one very traditional dish.  The waitress told us that they had “special” fresh ricotta, so I ordered the tortelloni with ricotta, spinach, and lemon zest that was lightly sauced with butter.  The dish was so fresh, and if you can imagine anything tossed in butter tasting light, that is the only way I can describe it.  The fresh pasta that encased the tortelloni was perfectly thin and cooked to perfection.

Adrian went with a regional specialty for his primi – Pappardelle con Guanciale, or thick cut pasta with the cured cheeks of the pig.  Again, the pasta was so perfect, it was almost the star of the dish, were it not for the unbelievable, rich and slow sauce.  We both reluctantly switched plates to sample each other’s, only to become increasingly confused about which dish to fight for.  Either one of these dishes would have certainly been the best pasta we had ever had.

For our secondi course, we opted for their house made sausage, which the waitress assured us was their specialty.  We decided to trust her on that, wisely.  The sausage was formed in perfect disc-shaped patties, coated in a light breading, and deep fried until it had a perfect golden crust to encase the savory juices within.  The sausages were accompanied by a perfect zabaglione, which is an incredibly light custard made with whipped egg yolks, sugar, and Lambrusco wine.  Having a sweet accompaniment to such a savory dish was surprising at first, but when we tasted them together, it was indescribably delicious.  Who ever thought of that should be knighted.

To finish the meal, we couldn’t pass on their homemade ice cream drizzled with a reserve aged balsamic vinegar, an absolute treat, after which we expected to have to request a wheel barrel to tote us out to the street.  Remarkably, though, we felt wonderful, which is a testament to the perfect portion sizes and simplicity of the food we had just eaten.  Or perhaps it was the ease on our wallet that left us feeling so great – the whole meal cost less than sixty Euros.

We left through the back door, which puts you at the very end of a long alley.  Just outside the door, accross the alley, there was a wine store that carried an innumerable collection of Italian wines.  The lights were low and no one was presently in the wine shop, but the door was open nonetheless, despite the fortune of wines within.  Only in Italy!  We were pleased at the opportunity to just snap a few photos and let the high from that most incredible meal carry us back to our hotel in Bologna.

There are not many places in the world that I’ve seen like Toscana (Tuscany to us North Americans).  Especially in the summertime, when man, that Tuscan sun is intense – the movie didn’t lie about that one.

So after an amazing few days down on the Amalfi Coast, Aimee and I made our way via rental car (a little go-cart-esque Fiat) from Sorrento up the A1 highway to the hills of Tuscany.  Along the way, we stopped in Montepulciano quickly, took some pics and (not surprisingly) bought a bottle of Brunello wine – really great stuff.

Tuscany is the home of wine in Italy for the most part – the place where Chianti comes from, the pinnacle of the ancient Sangiovese grape, which is responsible for the makeup of the region’s most popular wine, Chianti Classico.  Chianti, as we learned at the Castello Fonterutolli outside of Castellina, MUST contain no less than 80% of Sangiovese grape – other than that it’s up to the vintner, many use Cabernet Sauvignon to complement.

We spent out time between the town of Siena – an awesomely ancient city (like going back to the middle ages in terms of the architecture, art and just the feel of the city).  In terms of food, we really enjoyed Siena as well, tasting probably what was the second best meal of our time in Italy, on Aimee’s birthday at the Antica Osteria da Divo, a fantastic little restaurant that we literally stumbled upon after a rather embarrassing incident driving through the mainly pedestrian streets of the Siena town center.  The restaurant was perfectly suited for Siena, with terra cotta floors and high, wood beamed ceilings.  The only light came from candles on the tables and around the room.

It’s unfortunate that we didn’t get some pictures of this food, as it really was delicious.  We started with Crispy Herb Scented Anchovies with Eggplant Cake and Basil Sauce, then sampled some of the regional specialties.  In Tuscany, they’re famous for their use of wild boar, which we sampled in the Pici with Wild Boar Ragu.  Pici is a hand rolled, or “pinched”, pasta that is shorter and much thicker than spaghetti.  We also ordered a risotto dish with zucchini and zucchini flowers served in a hollow wheel of pecorino cheese.  When they scooped the risotto out of the cheese, the dish was delightfully rich and creamy – a nice touch!   Since we had just been in Montepulciano, and we were planning to head to Chianti in the next couple of days, we decided to order a Brunello to sip throughout the meal.  Delicious all around for sure.

In Tuscany, Aimee and I also fell head over heels in love with perhaps our favorite ingredient in all of Italy this time of year – the tomato.  Bruschetta you see was in full bloom there, and we took full advantage in Tuscany.  Perhaps the second best Bruschetta we sampled in Italy was at a cafe right on the Siena’s main square the Piazza di Campo.  So simple and delicious – something that we’ve already re-created here at home for dinner.  Just toast up some crusty bread, rub the surface with a garlic clove, and top it with tomatoes tossed in a little olive oil, salt, and dried oregano.  That’s it.  But believe me, that is enough.  In the heat of July, bruschetta is a perfect snack.

Other highlights of Tuscany besides the wine and the food was the coffee – especially at the famous Siena roaster Nannini, which roasts their own coffee and offers homemade gelato and around 1,000 different types of pastries and biscotti.  It offers very few tables, but there is a long espresso bar at which you can stand and sip your cappuccino or espresso and nibble on your pastry.

We also sampled some of the traditional dishes of Italy in Tuscany, such as Pesto Genovese, Fagiuoli all‘Uccelletto – the traditional Tuscan white beans in a simple tomato sauce.  Panzanella, a salad made with bread, cucumbers, and tomatoes, is also a regional specialty during the summertime, but the authentic version unfortunately falls a little short of the american adaptation.

Rather than making the dish with fresh baked crusty croutons, as we often see Giada prepare it on the Food Network, the serve it with mushed up day old bread, sparingly incorporate peeled and chopped cucumbers and tomatoes, and dress it with little more than olive oil.  It is served chilled and lacks much acidity.  This is one dish we tried that we definitely prefer to eat at home.

All in all, Toscana’s stunning scenery and rich history make for a memorable experience.  We’ll certainly be back.  For now, off to Bologna, Modena and Emilia-Romagna!!

So with a few days of married life under our belts, Aimee and I set off to Italia – a place we’ve long looked forward to traveling together for the sights, architecture, art, bot mostly the food and wine.  Our first stop on the trip was the Amalfi coast, where after loads of recommendations, we decided to stay in Positano, a town literally built into a 3-4K foot mountain with views right down to the Mediterranean and cool shops and restaurants throughout.

In terms of the food, we figured two things: first, we’re on the water, so the seafood must be delicious.  Second, we’re near Napoli (Naples), the home and origin of pizza, so we thought that sampling a few of these local delicacies was a good idea.  We really had no idea about which restaurants were which, but we tried to stick by our guns and find places that were more like holes in the wall instead of fancy places looking for Michelin stars.

Our first night in Italy, quite tired from a red eye flight and the day of traveling that followed, we struck out and found a restaurant called ‘Ristorante Il Capitano’, situated on a corner of a steep Positano street, just overlooking the harbor and water. Quite a setting, and they complimented it with a duo Lute and Guitar player for a small charge (something that every restaurant in Italy does I’ve learned).

Our meal started with perhaps my favorite dish of the trip so far: Thinly sliced fried Zucchini, dressed with salt, vinegar and olive oil.  Imagine something like a plate of small potato chips, but instead of potatoes, they’re zucchini instead.  Delicious, and something that I’ll try to reproduce for sure.  We then ate a pasta dish made from homemade squid ink pasta served with small fishes and tomatoes.  Delicious, and the pasta, albeit not the best made pasta I’ve ever had, was flavored with the quid ink and insanely good.  We then shared a pizzetta with some salumi and simple fresh tomatoes from San Marzano, which I later learned are grown in the area on the southern slope of Mount Vesuvius, just outside of Napoli.

This pizza really changed my idea of pizza totally around, and not just on the pizza front – on all food in general.  The food here in Italy is SO SIMPLE.  These people who cook here (basically everyone) don’t try to do too much.  It’s a lesson I needed to come here to learn – less is more.  For example, the tomato sauce they use for the pizzas in Napoli: it’s literally just pureed tomatoes – possibly a touch of garlic, but that’s basically it, and that’s all it needs to be.

Our eating experiences in Positano continued at the Saraceno D’Oro, right down the street from our hotel.  We ate simple things here as well, such as simple spaghetti with cherry tomatoes, bruschetta con tomate (best bruschetta I’ve had BY FAR) and the best thing (again) was the pizza – this time with Fungi Porcini, fresh porcini – tasting almost as delicious as if there were actual truffles on the pizza.  The bruschetta was made by the way the restaurant prepared the bread – it was baked fresh, then simply toasted to perfection (not just thrown in the toaster – it was golden brown throughout) then rubbed with garlic and topped with olive oil, before the tomatoes went on.

In terms of drinks, the Amalfi coast is known for it’s citrus groves, mostly lemons – so you can imagine it’s the home of limoncello.  What I was surprised by is that every little gift shop and bar in Positano and Amalfi makes their own version of the stuff.  We tried a couple different samples, and liked them all, especially at the Saraceno D’Oro where they gave us free samples after our meal.

As we drove out of the south of Italy, through Sorrento, Napoli and the surrounding coast, we were more than content and happy we had gone there and experienced the culture, views and of course of the food of the Amalfi coast – it’s qite a place.  Oh, and if you’re considering coming here and also potentially Cinque Terre, take it from me (I’ve been to both places) go to the Amalfi Coast, it’s much bigger and more dramatic.  Don’t forget you’re in the home of pizza!

Next Stop: Tuscany: Siena and Chianti!

Let me first start by explaining what it’s like to go on a trip with Bob Owen – my father. It doesn’t matter if you’ve been to the destination once or a thousand times, you’ll always feel like a tourist. He’s a man in constant need of information – “What are you known for”, “Who are the owners so that I may get a picture with our family”, “Does president Lincoln have any ties to this town?” But typically the local flare, despite your grumpy, “I hate tourists”, local, enjoy his passion for wanting to know every little detail about their town, locals shops and in this case, their breakfast spots.

Up For Breakfast is right across from the old Quality Restaurant in Manchester, Vermont. It was a sad sight to see a dark interior where the Quality once stood. From the classic jukebox to the fresh squeezed orange juice, our family has many fond memories of their breakfast. But there’s no question that a new breakfast sheriff is in town and many memories are in store for the Owen family.

Upon arriving at Up For Breakfast, you must first make it up the steep and narrow wooden stairs that lead you to the second floor of this two story building. The space below is closed and we later learned that Bonnie, the founder of Up For Breakfast, is the owner (she’s looking for renters). But don’t tell Bonnie she should open up the bottom with more tables for service because it’s not going to happen. You have to respect someone like Bonnie who doesn’t want to make any changes to a good thing. And boy, do they have a good thing going. According to their staff, the place can seat about forty-one people. On a busy weekend morning they turn the tables over about seven times, roughly 300 patrons.

Amanda and I showed up on Wednesday night and on Thursday morning we had our first experience here. However, this was already my parents, my two sisters and Emily’s now fiancé, second or third trip since Sunday. Per usual, they had already begun to be on a first name basis with the staff, especially Danielle, who happens to share her name with my other sister – and they also happen to share the same hair color so of course my father claims they could be sisters.

I decided to write this review after our second trip on Saturday morning so I’m going to focus the review on that particular meal. But I must say, the omelet I had the first time was just as satisfying.

I was feeling more of a sweet tooth this morning so it was either French toast or pancakes. I had picked at a blueberry pancake our first day and was very impressed by the consistency of the batter. The fact that they use coffee carafes to keep their pure Vermont maple syrup warm is also a huge plus on the Dear Diner meter. As I combed the specials, I immediately noticed the French toast special – Banana blueberry whole wheat oatmeal bread topped with warm bananas, walnuts and brown sugar. But to satisfy my savory taste buds, I decided to try out the special sausage – wild boar (On Wednesday the special sausage was rabbit). Huge bonus points for exotic meats. The wild boar had a milder flavor then pork sausage. It’s a bit drier with less grease. There was a hint of gaminess but not so much that it overpowered the sausage spice, which seemed to come from a combo of nutmeg and cinnamon.

The French toast wasn’t the most colorful plate but the taste made up for the lack of beauty. The tops of the bread were perfectly grilled, giving it a surface so smooth that you could skate the butter across like a frozen pond. However, you won’t need any bit of butter for these bad boys. Just a dollop of the warmed maple syrup we mentioned above and you’re ready to dig in. While the surface was crisp, the innards were warm and moist. The syrup soaked through giving it a thick, heavenly texture as you went diving in with your fork. The taste all starts with the warmed bananas and eventually makes its way to the nutty walnut flavor. In between you soak up the sweetness of the syrup and tang of the blueberry. Unlike some whole wheat bread, this one did not taste too grainy.

From the friendly service, to the open kitchen vibe, cozy interior, and most importantly the remarkable breakfast fare, Up For Breakfast gets the first 10 out of 10 on the Dear, Diner scale. Looking forward to returning and getting more pictures with Danielle, Bonnie and crew.

Ever since I had a bowl of “3-X” at The Texas Chili Parlor – the famous spot in Austin, I’ve been enchanted by the call of the Red.   A pot of chili creates an excitement and sense of history.  Most of what I know about chili came from an article in Esquire magazine from ’81 or ’82 titled,”How to Throw a Chili Festival.”  I can’t find the name of the author, if anyone knows it, please post it in the remarks.

He credited Frank X. Tolbert for the basis of his recipe.  I have changed it a little over the years, but it is essentially Tolbert’s chili I strive for.

Much has been said about whether “true” Texas chili is ruined by adulterating the original basic elements: meat, chili peppers, and spices.  The original included no beans, macaroni, tofu, chocolate, rice, coffee, tomatoes, onion, celery, poultry, seafood, wine, hot dogs, peanut butter, eggplant, zucchini, corn, or anything vegetarian.

Count me in the group that appreciates the lore of a purist brew, but can also enjoy moderate enhancements. For most people, one bowl of the real stuff and the beany-veggie stuff begins to seem mildly ridiculous. You can find the recipe part of the article, posted without acknowledgment of source, at this URL: http://tcbunch.com/home/index.php5?title=North_Texas_Red_Chili

I skip the flour and masa harina, substituting onion and mushroom to thicken the texture, otherwise this is still the best recipe I’ve tried. I also use tomato paste instead of sugar; it adds color and texture.  Chili making is more work than most meals, so I like to make a big pot and have plenty for give-aways and left-overs. I’ve also added a few shortcuts to make things go quicker. Some people insist that cast iron cookware is the only way to get the authentic taste; use it if you have it.

Ingredients

• 10 lbs beef, a cheap and tough cut is best; anything too tender will fall apart.
• 1 lb thick-sliced bacon
• 20-30 hot chilies, I look for a mixture of sizes and types, fresh and dried, mostly red, to get the good red color.
• 3-4 red bell peppers
• 8-10 cloves garlic (I usually use 6-8 tsp minced from a jar)
• 12 medium mushrooms
• 2 medium sweet onions
• 2 cups beef broth
• 1 cup chili powder
• 2 tsp ground coriander
• 3 tsp ground cumin
• 2 tsp oregano
• ¼ cup paprika
• 1-6oz can tomato paste
• 5 beers
• Salt to taste

Method

To begin, put on some cowboy music and start with a belt of tequila, which really does help establish perspective. Cook the bacon in two skillets, drain and set aside; keep drippings handy in a bowl. Remove stems, seeds and veins from the peppers, add to a soup pot with beef broth, onions, mushrooms, tomato paste, and garlic cloves; add water to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer briskly for a half hour, while the beef is being browned.

Watch the pepper fumes, they can burn your eyes and throat. Remove most fat, gristle and silver skin from beef and save. Cut meat into ¾ inch cubes. Brown the cubed beef, a handful at a time in the two skillets, use some bacon grease to loosen it up. Watch for steaming caused by crowding, it gives the meat a weird texture. Give it a good scorch, but don’t let it burn. Put cooked beef into the chili pot.

When all the beef is done and in the pot, turn off the peppers and let cool for a while. Toss the beef trimmings into a skillet and fry it up. When it’s scorched, add 2-3 cups of water; this will extract flavor from the fatty nuggets and de-glaze the pan, also gathering flavors. Pour this into the other skillet and de-glaze that one too. Strain liquid into pepper pot, discard the trimmings, save some for the dog though!

Chop whatever is left of the bacon, after everyone snacks on half of it, and add it to the big pot. Add the dry spices to the beef and stir thoroughly and gently to coat the cubed meat. If you are using minced garlic from a jar, add it also. Cook the coated meat gently for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, don’t let the bottom burn.

Ladle the pepper mixture, in batches, into a blender and puree. The idea is to chop the pepper skins fine enough to be unnoticeable, but don’t overdo it. Crack a beer, take a sip, and then stir the rest into the meat. This is fun. Do it again. Add the blended up peppers and broth. Add the rest of the beers. The meat should be covered, with about two inches of liquid above it. Add water or beer as needed to make enough broth.

Cook over low heat for at least two hours, while you clean up the kitchen mess. Keep stirring to prevent burning. Taste the broth and adjust pepper level and saltiness if needed. I usually let it simmer slowly for 4-5 hours. The whole house will be filled with that unmistakable aroma, mmmm. Place the pot in the fridge overnight.

An hour before serving, skim some of the grease off the top with a spatula, I like to leave some in for flavor and texture. Heat carefully over low heat until the pot is just bubbling. Serve with shredded Monterrey Jack and cheddar. Most people like some bread or saltines as a security blanket against the peppers. A good bowl isn’t so hot it is a chore to endure, but is should make you sweat a bit. It is normal to find yourself at a pause, mid-bowl, with deep thoughts bubbling up into your consciousness before digging back in to finish.  Use leftover chili and cheese to make omelets the next morning.

The longer I have cooked professionally, the more frequently I have come to ask, what does it mean to cook well?  It’s somewhat of a loaded question.  Plenty of people cook well at home every day, with nothing more glorious than ingredients from a local chain store.  To the professional chef it means a host of different things depending on their personal goals, style of restaurant, etc…

To me it means a clean apron at the end of the night, after performing a host of different tasks, all so that we can satisfy our guests’ rather complex whims.   For me it is easier to explain my vision of cooking well by pointing to certain chefs I hold in high regard, David Kinch of Manresa, Daniel Patterson of Coi, Paul Liebrandt of Corton.

There was a fantastic article about Liebrandt in the NY Times on Tuesday.  The crazier foodies, and New Yorkers in general, have been following his eclectic behavior and seemingly odd flavor combinations for quite a while now.  No one seems to know what he is going to do next.  But among all this volatility, there is an extreme degree of control and finesse, something that is highly sought after in the fine dining world.  Two sentences jumped out at me.

“Paul’s plates look like the food was blown there by a gentle breeze, to have a plate that is super-composed but looks organic, that’s the dream. And it’s not easy to do.”  The comment was made by a pastry chef that worked with him earlier in his career, Will Goldfarb.  Many of us aspire to that level, but it is incredibly rare that any reach that plane.  If you have the time, take a look at the NY Times article:

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/22/dining/22lieb.html?_r=1&ref=dining

The man really is amazing.  Oh, did I mention, Paul Liebrandt is only 32 years old, and has been running high-end kitchens since he was 25?

“Hill Country” in the heart of Texas is not only the home of the totally amazing Enchanted Rock, it is the peach growing capital of the state, and home to many German-influenced towns like Fredericksburg.

After a rough, windy day of rock climbing in the Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, we stopped into this charming oasis to refuel.  Literally hundreds of Bed & Breakfasts made from converted historic homes and buildings are interspersed in the town along with quaint cafes, German bakeries, boutiques, unique handmade candle shops and ice cream parlors. The Fredericksburg Herb Farm about 6 blocks off Main Street sells various products made with their own organically grown culinary and ornamental herbs (we were sorry to miss it because it closes at 5:30).

We wandered into the Fredericksburg Brewing Company, housed in an 1890′s restored rock building.

The Beer:  From what I could tell, all the beer was brewed right there behind the bar.  I wasn’t expecting much from the beer thinking that I was at a tourist trap instead of a fine brewery.  Boy was i wrong.  I started off with an Enchanted Rock Red Ale.  This beer was absolutely fantastic!  Not too hoppy, a perfect blend of maltiness, and a refreshing finish.  I was already finished with half of it before I realized it is a multiple award winning brew.  I was totally in love!  (In the 2007 Great American Beer Festival it won a bronze medal, and in the 2004 World Beer Cup it won a silver medal.)  Every sip was exactly what I look for in a sip of beer.  If you like red ales, this one will blow your socks off!  The next beer I got was the Pioneer Porter.  Another Award winner (Gold and Silver from the Great American Beer Festival, and a Bronze from the World Beer Cup.)  This was good, but not the best porter I’ve had.  From hitting the lips to swallow it was superb, but I lost it on the after taste.  A bit bitter I suppose.  But still, better than most beers I’ve had.  The last I tried was the Giant.  The Giant is a heavy stout, and I mean heavy!  The head was a rich brown in color and the consistency was thicker than your normal stout.  Due to its 8.4% ABV, I got a 4 oz glass.  It was plenty for me.  I enjoyed it after our meal and was very impressed.  It is nutty and chocolaty, with a roasted finish.  No bitterness, just strong enough, and no pasty aftertaste.  An excellent after dinner, or all-by-itself beer. 

Congratulations to Fredricksburg Brewing Company for brewing fantastic beer!

Tasty as they sounded, we couldn’t bring ourselves to order the German specialties like the Reuben sandwich, schnitzel, sausage, etc (opting for the healthier options as we are trying to detox after living in New Orleans for 7 months!).

We enjoyed a winter salad with pecan vinaigrette dressing; the Monterrey Chicken, grilled with roasted peppers and cheese, and topped with fresh avocado slices; rice and beans; and a loaded baked potato. The pecan vinaigrette dressing was defiantly the highlight, nutty and sweet. I love trying new salad dressings and I’m always looking for new ideas, this was a first for me. Unfortunately I don’t know how they made it or if the pecans were local, I was too tired to ask.

Greetings from Kauai!  This story starts when we were invited to a friend’s home for a Holiday breakfast. There’s a nice tradition on the island that everyone invited for a meal brings a dish or two to share, even if the host tells you not to. We’re bringing musubi, an island favorite. Musubi means something like ‘sandwich’. Out here it refers to a slab of Spam, with sticky rice, wrapped up in typical sushi nori (seaweed wrap).

I know, Spam is gross, whatever. The first time I brought it to a pot luck in Maine, despite Lisa’s protest, people made icky faces and sniffed un-approvingly. Then they tried one. Trust me, these things disappear like minnows in the shark tank; you won’t have to deal with leftovers. For you East coast folks, they’re an easy to make novelty. Musubi is generally sold in convenience stores with a slice of spam the size of a cellphone, almost meal sized. For parties, I like to serve it in bite size wheels, sushi roll style.

You can follow my directions, or there’s a very entertaining instructional video available showing the traditional musubi way, without the Spam: http://www.musubi.org

Ingredients: (makes about 50 wheels, an appetizer for 10-12 people)

• 1 can of Spam

• Sushi Rice, about 2 cups cooked.

• Nori wrap, 12-15 half sheets, about 4 x8 inches.

• Wasabi

• Soy Sauce (here it’s called shoyu)

Method:

Bring rice pot to boil, 1-1/2 cups rice with 2-1/4 cups sushi rice, stir and turn to low heat until all water is absorbed. Stir occasionally to keep the bottom from forming a skin. Slice the Spam loaf lengthwise into four slabs, then again making 16 square sticks. Brown the Spam fingers in a skillet, nice and brown; this leaves a hint of crunchiness which is very satisfying.

You need to roll ‘em while the rice is still warm; the steam cures the dry, crackly nori into a sturdy wrapper. The secret to this whole thing is to keep your fingers free of sticky rice, which will make a mess out of the fragile nori. Keep a bowl of water and a roll of paper towels handy for frequent clean-up.

Place a half sheet on a clean, dry surface. Use a wooden or plastic spoon to scoop rice onto the nori. Use a scoop about the size of two golf balls. Starting at one end, gently spread the rice into an even layer, about ¼ inch thick that covers about one half of the wrapper. Finger paint a stripe of wasabi across the rice layer. Place a Spam stick across the rice and roll it up. The aim is to get the Spam centered in the roll with an even layer of rice around it.

Don’t wrap too tight, the nori will shrink as it cools and dries, it will split like a boiled hot dog if it’s too tight. Place the rolled musubi on a plate with the flap on the bottom, the moisture from the rice will glue the whole thing together in about 10 minutes.

Use your sharpest knife to slice the rolls in half, then in half again to make 4 wheels from each roll. You can trim the ends if you like. Take care not to crowd them on the plate, they can stick together as they cool and ruin your party. Most people like to dip them into soy sauce, with a little wasabi stirred in.

Here are some other Hawaiian Recipes to remind you of the islands:

Kalua Pig: http://singleguychef.blogspot.com/2007/07/no-nonsense-kalua-pig.html

Tuna Poke: http://www.foodfashionista.com/food_fashionista/2008/09/sam-choys-spicy.html

Lomi Lomi Salmon: http://www.fishmaui.com/fish-recipes/lomilomi.html

Ok, so back to the list.  The following is the top 10 of the Top Beers in America post.  These beers that are mentioned here are my favorite beverages in any season.  I’m not separating these out by type (lager, bock, IPA, etc…) – that post might come later on.  I am also trying to keep this list to beers that are “fairly accessible” nationally, though there will be some that may be only available on either coast or in the middle.  I’m also not limiting this to ‘year round’ beers…there may be a few that are only available seasonally.  If you agree or disagree let me know, I welcome any input!  Here goes my top 10:  (ABV = Alcohol content)

**Bonus Beer**: Yuengling Traditional Lager, Yuengling Beer Company, Pottsville, PA

Yuengling Lager is brewed in the oldest brewery in the United States.  Opened in 1829 in Pottsvile, PA, Yuengling has been producing their Traditional Lager pretty much ever since.  While the beer itself has gotten a face lift or two over the years, the recipe for this Lager has its roots in the grand traditions and method of German beer makers where the Yuengling family emigrated from.  While you can only find Yuengling in certain eastern states, I highly recommend trying one the next time you’re in Philadelphia or New York City.  It’s light, crisp and refreshing – a bit of sweetness and a clean finish make it extremely drinkable.
Food Pairing: Philly Cheesesteak – Ordered “Wiz With” – Don’t let ‘em fool you, it’s the only way to go.

10. Long Trail Double Bag Long Trail Brewery, Bridgewater Corners, VT

Look out for this beer my friends.  A few bottles of this stuff will set you on your rear end, that’s for sure.  Aside from Double Bag’s reputation around the New England region for being one of the stronger ale’s of choice, I think the Double Bag stands out for it’s stellar color and robust flavors.  Next time you get some of this stuff, pour it into a glass and enjoy the aromas before drinking.  The first taste notes I got are toffee and a bit of citrus, but then it finishes pretty hoppy and then very clean.  Very drinkable for the amount of alcohol it contains, so watch out.  ABV: 7.2%
Food Pairing: I think this would go great with a Pasta dish with some hearty Ragu.

9. Sam Adams Hallertau Imperial Pilsner Boston Beer Company, Jamaica Plain, MA

A few years back I got the opportunity to take a brewery tour of the Sam Adams operation in Jamaica Plain, just south of Boston.  I was both impressed by the simplicity of the operation and the openness of the people who were working there.  Though I really do enjoy Sam Winter Lager and find it the most drinkable of the Sam Adams family, I do believe that their Imperial Pilsner is the best beer they produce.  This beer is right up there with Pliny the Elder for bringing the most amount of hops to the table.  It’s intense, almost overwhelming.  One tip I’d give you is to get this beer very cold.  It’s a treat to enjoy on special occasions.  ABV: 8.8%
Food Pairing: Ribeye Steak – or something that will stand up to it…it’s a force to be reckoned with.

8. Victory Prima Pils Victory Brewing Company, Downington, PA

First of all, thanks to Rob Childs for turning me on to the Victory line-up.  All three of their beers that I’ve tried have been very good – Golden Monkey, Hop Devil and Prima Pils.  The Prima Pils is here because I think it’s hands down the best pilsner being produced in America today.  Pouring it into a glass, the aromas are of wheat and bread, a clean taste – like a super good PBR or Bud.  This beer is great in the summer, but good at anytime.  If you’re a fan of light beer, give the Prima Pils a shot.  ABV: 5.3%
Food Pairing: Swordfish, salmon, sea bass….or just burgers and dogs.

7. Geary’s Summer Ale D.L. Geary Brewing Company, Portland, ME

This beer is close to my heart, as I grew up heading to the Maine coast for vacation in the summertime.  This beer was always the choice Summer Ale (along with Shipyard summer) to chill with.  The beer has great citrus flavor and aroma – though not strong enough to overpower the hops, which are subtle but there.  This isn’t a totally light summer beer, but very refreshing on a hot day.  ABV: 6%
Food Pairing: If you happen to find yourself in Maine in the summer, grab a 6-pack, a few lobsters and cook them in ocean water from the beach (if available) and you’ll satisfy your soul.

6. Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA Dogfish Head Craft Brewery, Milton, DE

Beers #6, 5 and 3 are the best IPA’s that I believe are being produced in our country today.  I’m going to start the lineup with a beer from a truly great brewery: Dogfish Head.  To be honest, I have always drank more of their 60 Minute IPA and Raison D’Etre brews, which are both more widely available than the 90 Minute.  This brew is citrus in the nose with a heavy malt taste and clean finish…definitely enjoy it from a glass.  It’s less hoppy than your typical “Imperial IPA”.  The alcohol content is up there, likely the reason for it being sold in the unique 4-packs.  If you can find this beer locally, pick some up – it’s a treat.  ABV: 9%
Food Pairing: Spicy pork chops with ancho chili sauce

5. Bridgeport India Pale Ale Bridgeport Brewing Company, Portland, OR

Our buddy Walters turned me onto this beer when he was working at the brewpub up in Portland, OR.  I had always wanted to try it and then finally discovered it in a Safeway (of all places) in Oakland, CA.  This is a truly great IPA.  Lots of hoppiness, but incredibly well balanced at the same time.  The taste packs lemon and citrus, with that perfect sort of clean malt aftertaste.  This beer is great on any occasion, plus the bottles are sweet.  ABV: 5.5%
Food Pairing: Cedar plank roasted wild northwest salmon

4. Mirror Pond Pale Ale Deschutes Brewing Company, Bend, OR

Mirror Pond falls at #3, and this was a tough call.  Initially this was my favorite beer on the west coast, and it’s one of the most unique labels in the beer store and really jumps out at you.  Trying Mirror Pond for the first time is like a dream come true.  It’s so smooth you almost think it’s not even a beer at all.  It pours a beautiful dark amber color that just looks like someone knew what they were doing.  Its hop and bitterness levels aren’t that intense, but are still there to be enjoyed.  Deschutes is the only brewery to have 2 beers make my top 20, and if you’re ever in Bend, OR, go to the brewery but get there early, it’s always packed.  ABV: 5%
Food Pairing: Love this beer with Sushi

3. Racer 5 IPA Bear Republic Brewing Company, Healdsburg, CA

Ok, top 3 time.  Racer 5 sits at the top of the beer chain that has been started in the little brewery hotbed around the Santa Rosa, CA area.  This brew is awesome – great hoppiness, a little bitterness, but also some fruit and floral notes.  Pours a great deep golden color (like the NorCal hills in the summertime) that is just so inviting.  This brew will not disappoint, it will only grow on you over time.  The alcohol content is a little high, but you definitely cannot taste it.  This is the best American IPA I’ve ever had.  ABV: 7%
Food Pairing: Risotto with Barolo or Saffron or something big.

2. Rogue Dead Guy Ale Rogue Ale’s Brewery, Newport, OR

Rogue Dead Guy is here because it’s my favorite of the Rogue Ales.  It’s also the stain of Rogue that you’re most likely able to find in your area (if you’re lucky).  But this is tough because Rogue produces what seems like 150 different types of beer and most of them are really good.  Dead Guy is so simple and so easy to drink – it’s fairly sweet in the nose, with a hint of malt.  The taste is a little toasty and a little citrus, but very clean all around.  The color of this beer is perhaps its most impressive quality – it’s almost what I’d call a bright orange, it literally shines in the glass.  If I can find Dead Guy, I’m usually buying it.  Tough call here at #2.  ABV: 6.5%
Food Pairing: Great pub brew to grab with a burger that you know is going to be good.

1. Ipswich Original Ale Mercury Brewing Company, Ipswich, MA

That’s right, my number 1 beer is Ipswich Original Ale from Mercury Brewing – in my opinion the best all around beer in America.  There are simply no flaws with this beer at all.  If you were to pour this beer to someone who doesn’t even like beer, they would be hard to argue that this isn’t a thoughtful and well constructed beverage.  It pours that classic bright amber color, with a great white head.  It’s flavors are perfectly balanced, a little bitterness, but incredibly easy to drink.  It’s smoothness is something that I really value and look for in a beer.  It’s alcohol content isn’t overwhelming (which is good so you can enjoy more than one).  If you can find Ipswich Ale in your area, I (obviously) highly recommend it – it won’t disappoint.
Food Pairing: Mussels, clams, other shellfish – or just on its own.  ABV: 5.4%

So this concludes this years list of the top 20 beers.  If you have any comments or questions, please don’t hesitate to leave them below.  Cheers!

In case you didn’t know, a period of prohibition (production and sale of alcoholic beverages illegal)  took place in the United States between the years of 1920 and 1933.  This wasn’t just some common law, it was an amendment to the constitution (the 18th).  During the Great Depression prohibition become increasingly unpopular (as you might imagine), so FDR led a reform movement and the government eventually repealed it in 1933 with the 21st amendment.  Few breweries survived this period and did so by rapidly converting their beverages into non-alcoholic malt drinks.  These were the large commercial breweries, many of which are around today.

Microbrewing in America really didn’t begin until 1979 when a law was passed legalizing the home brewing of beer and a new craft was born.  But enough history, let’s get to the list.

These beers that are mentioned here are my favorite beverages in any season.  I’m not separating these out by type (lager, bock, pale ale, etc…) – that post might come later on.  I am also trying to keep this list to beers that are “fairly accessible” nationally, though there will be some that may be only available on either coast or in the middle.  I’m also not limiting this to ‘year round’ beers…there may be a few that are only available seasonally.  If you agree or disagree let me know, I welcome any input!  Here goes:  (ABV = Alcohol content)

For Part 2 (the top 10), please click here

**Bonus Beer!!!** Pabst Blue Ribbon Pabst Brewing Company, Milwaukee, WI

PBR is here because it is hands down the best light American-style lager on the market (and has been for years).  Though it’s recently been brewed on a contract basis by the Miller Corporation, its classic balance of full body and ever present bready, grainy flavor brings it to the top of the heap of lite beers that are produced in America today.  When it’s time to bust out the beruit balls or beer die, Pabst is the go to choice.  ABV: 4.74%
Food Pairing: Burgers, sausage, pulled pork…anything that gets near a grill

Now down to business:

20. Anderson Valley Boont Amber Ale Anderson Valley Brewing, Boonville, CA

Crisp and refreshing, the Boonville Amber is quite possibly the best amber on the market today.  In my opinion, blowing away other popular ambers such as Fat Tire from New Belgium.  Slightly fruity with a great balance of hops (not too overpowering) and not as toasty as some ambers out there.  This beer almost appears like a brown ale, rather than overly red.  I’m not usually a huge fan of amber ales, but this one rules. ABV: 5.8%
Food Pairing: Grilled fish (salmon or swordfish)

19. Harpoon IPA Harpoon Brewery, Boston, MA

The flagship beer of the Harpoon lineup, this beer is classic Boston and you can surely find it on draft in almost any bar across northern New England.  Harpoon’s take on the IPA is not quite as hoppy or bitter as some of the other IPA’s that you will find, but it’s medium body and light, floral finish make it very easy to drink.  A great ‘entry-level’ IPA and a great brewery in general.  Harpoon makes some other very good beers, especially their UFO Hefeweizen and Winter Warmer. ABV: 5.9%
Food Pairing: Spicy chili, Thai or Chinese noodles and curries

18. New Belgium 2 Below New Belgium Brewing, Fort Collins, CO

New Belgium is known by most beer connoisseurs for it’s infamous Fat Tire Amber, but after trying many of their ales, I believe that the 2 Below is the best beer coming out of Fort Collins.  Only available during the winter, the 2 Below is incredibly comforting and warming, with a great toasty aroma, hints of coffee and a great sweetness with a clean finish. The 2 Below isn’t as hoppy as an IPA, but not quite as dark as a porter or stout. It’s also not as fruity as some winter lagers you’ll find.  ABV: 6.6%
Food Pairing: Winter vegetable soup, braised duck and chicken legs

17. Shipyard Old Thumper ESA Shipyard Brewing Company, Portland, ME

Old Thumper served as my introduction to darker beer.  It’s brewed at the restaurant I used to cook at – Federal Jack’s in Kennebunkport, ME. and mass produced by the Shipyard Brewery in Portland, ME.  Thumper is akin to a traditional English style pub ale, though it’s taste has sweetness and depth of flavor.  It’s mildly carbonated and perfect on a crisp autumn day.  Best beer Shipyard produces.  ABV: 5.9%
Food Pairing: Try it with fish and chips – It won’t disappoint.

16. Anchor Porter Anchor Brewing, San Francisco, CA

Anchor is another American classic and a San Francisco icon.  Their Porter is perhaps less known than their flagship Anchor Steam lager, though I’m usually able to find it in any larger sized liquor store.  It’s certainly my favorite of the Anchor varieties as well.  The Anchor Porter has all of what you’re looking for in a Porter – sweet, smoky flavor that is reminiscent of coffee and caramel.  This stuff doesn’t get old.  ABV: 5.6%
Food Pairing: Try it with braised beef short ribs (and use it to braise them in too!)

15. Smuttynose Old Brown Dog Ale Smuttynose Brewing Company, Portsmouth, NH

Recently rated the best brown ale in the northeast, the old brown dog ale is a great example of a British brown from America.  Don’t compare it to Newcastle, because it’s depth of flavor far exceeds it.  The old brown dog is fairly complex, roasty malt, light caramel flavor with a clean aftertaste, mild on the hops – just as a brown ale should be.  ABV: 5.7%
Food Pairing: Shepherd’s Pie (made the real way with Lamb)

14. Brooklyn Lager Brooklyn Brewery, Brooklyn, NY

If I had to describe Brooklyn Lager to someone who had never tried it, I’d definitely say that it’s extremely drinkable.  This beer is so mild and mellow that you almost forget it’s beer at all.  Mellow hops, smooth all the way around and very little aftertaste, Brooklyn Lager has to be one of the best beers to just chill with.  Definitely in rotation in my fridge.  ABV: 5.2%
Food Pairing: Go out to your favorite taqueria, grab yourself a burrito and a Brooklyn Lager and you’ll have a great meal.

13. Sierra Nevada Pale Ale Sierra Nevada Brewing Company, Chico, CA

Perhaps the most widely available brew on this list (aside from PBR), Sierra Nevada is probably one of the first great beers I gained appreciation for.  It’s got a lot of hops for a pale ale, and because of this it almost resembles an IPA.  The hoppiness is classic west coast, and you’d be crazy not to get one on draft the next time you’re in San Francisco.  Flavor has lots of citrus and pine notes…is there any wonder why it’s one of the most popular beers out there?  ABV: 5.6%
Food Pairing: Smoked Chicken or Pork

12. Pliny the Elder Russian River Brewing Company, Santa Rosa, CA

Going from perhaps the most popular and widely available craft brew on this list to perhaps the least…this beer is here because it’s simply awesome.  If you LOVE hops (not just like, but love), then you’ll dig this beer.  We used to be able to get it on tap at Ben and Nicks and Barclay’s in Oakland’s Rockridge neighborhood, but you may find it in some gourmet beer and wine stores around the country.  If you find it, give it a shot.  It’s a double IPA with lots of awesome floral flavor.  A classic.  ABV: 8%
Food Pairing: Cuban Sandwich (what I used to order with it)

11. Black Butte Porter Deschutes Brewery, Bend, OR

This Porter is the beer I tried from the Dechutes Brewery in Bend, and it immediately became a favorite of mine.  The brew is dark and comforting, with subtle coffee and chocolate flavors.  What sets this porter apart though is the slight level of hoppiness that you find.  Most porters are don’t have any of that classic bitterness, but this one has a little.  On another note, Oregon is my favorite beer producing state in the country, perhaps because I find them so fresh (many, many breweries in this country use Cascade hops from the mountains in the Pacific NW – so Oregon breweries get the freshest hops in their beers).  This is not the last Oregon brew you will find on this list.  ABV: 5.5%
Food Pairing: Good desert beer – order it with a cheese plate.

Part 2 (10-1) coming soon!