Greens

A Risotto Primer; and, Autumn Risotto with Kale and Delicata Squash

I’ve often heard Risotto described as a tricky, fussy, or otherwise advanced dish.  Don’t be fooled!  To me, Risotto is the quintessential “feel it out” dish for the beginner.  It does take some attention, but the cooking method presented here (which is by far the most common) is quite forgiving.

Plus, Risotto is an excellent base from which a true plethora of recipes can be created.  Learn to make good Risotto, and you will be able to make some fabulous dishes!  To illustrate this point, I’ll first describe a method of cooking Risotto.  Then, I’ll provide a simple variation so you can see how easy it is to create unique and interesting dishes from this versatile base.

Ingredients

On to the ingredients.  I don’t have any exact measurements, but that’s part of the point.  Risotto is very intuitive; instead of worrying about exact amounts, pay attention to relative quantities.

When it comes down to it, Risotto has five basic ingredients:

The Rice: Risotto is made using round, medium grain rice. The easiest type to find (in the US, anyway) is Arborio. Choose the amount of rice based on the amount of servings you want. One and a half cups will make a good side dish for 4-6 people. The quantity of rice dictates the quantities of the other ingredients.

The Aromatics: To begin with, just use onion. As you explore the world of Risotto, you’ll discover that other aromatics can be a nice addition (garlic or fennel, for example). Pick the aromatics based on your mood and the other ingredients you plan on using. As for measurement, use about half to three quarters the amount of rice. So here we’d be using about a cup.

The Broth: If you can, use homemade broth. It really makes a difference. I use chicken broth, but vegetable broth would work just as well. I would recommend a low sodium broth, as you can always add salt later. You need to get the broth hot - if you introduce cold broth to your Risotto, it will not turn out well. Use about two times the amount of rice.

The Fat: I use a combination of butter and olive oil, but you could use either of those on their own as well. I think I end up with about two tablespoons of fat in total. You need enough to coat the rice and the aromatics.

The Cheese: Freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano is the best choice here. How much you use is really up to you - I probably use about one third the amount of rice.

* Some people would argue that Risotto without wine is not Risotto. Actually, it is still Risotto. It’s also simpler and cheaper to make. I’ll describe the use of wine below.

Cooking Method

Bring the broth to a boil, then reduce to low heat and put a lid on it.

Over medium low heat, warm the fat in a heavy skillet.  (Cast iron skillets are cheap - like $25 - and they rock).  Add the onion and sauteé until softened. For now, avoid browning (most people brown the onions, but this adds complication; I’ll describe below).

Now add the rice and sauteé until mostly translucent (5 minutes?), stirring constantly (you do not want the rice to brown). If things dry out, add more fat.

Mix in a ladle or so of your hot broth, and stir occasionally after that.  When the broth is nearly all cooked off (3-4 minutes), stir in another ladle or so.  Keep doing this until the Risotto is cooked to perfection.

How do you know when the Risotto is done? It should be soft but a little bit firm. It should be very easy to chew, but not turned into a paste. In short, it should be al dente.

Stir in the cheese and salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately.

Using Wine

Most Risotto recipes call for wine. Wine is a nice addition, but is not so significant as to change the dish entirely. If you want to use it, heat it up and add it in place of the first flush of broth. You’ll only need a ladle or so (about half a cup). Choose the type of wine based on the other ingredients. For the basic Risotto above, use a dry white wine such as Sauvignon Blanc.

Browning the Onions

Most people brown the onions, and this is probably the “right” way to do it. Still, I don’t usually bother. If you do this, you should take the onions out before frying the rice so they don’t burn. Re-introduce them when you add the first flush of broth (or the wine, if using).

Developing your Technique

If you find a particular variety of rice that you like to use for Risotto (i.e., a particular type—like Arborio—and a particular vendor), you can learn how much liquid it will absorb before it is cooked to your liking. Once you learn this, you don’t need to add the broth progressively anymore. Just add your desired amount all at once and stir occasionally.

Branching Out: Autumn Risotto with Kale, Delicata Squash, and Fennel

One of the best things about easting seasonally is that you gain a new appreciation for each of earth’s bounties, as you rediscover them year after year when they come into season.  I love kale.  Fresh, properly cooked kale is a delicious and very nutritious ingredient.  I love most squash, but I am picky about it.  Overcooked squash is gross.  Fennel is more of a late summer item, so maybe this is Early Autumn Risotto.

For this recipe I used local green kale and Delicata squash.  First, choose your quantities.  I used a cup or so each of squash and fennel and two cups of packed kale.  Add the fennel when you add the onion. Add the squash when the rice is about halfway done, and the kale a few minutes later, depending on how you like it (I like mine bright green and a little bit firm).

When you add the cheese, also add some lemon zest.  This may sound like a small addition, but it really adds something to this dish.

Obviously you can improvise and improve on this ad infinum. Make Risotto when you have some leftover veggies in your fridge and you don’t know what to do with them. Make it in a pinch when you have unexpected guests and you need to whip up a quick meal. Make it when you want to impress someone (it will). Try it with walnuts and dried fruit. Try it with mushrooms and sausage. Try it with basil and roasted tomatoes. You see? You can do pretty much anything with it. Since I’ve started making Risotto, it has become one of my primary go-to dishes for just about any situation.

I hope you enjoy preparing and eating Risotto!

© 2008 The Fresh Dish.