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Todd English’s “Figs” in Charlestown, MA

Todd English is the renowned chef and owner of several restaurants in Boston, MA including Olives, Kingfish, Bonfire and Figs.  Other notable chefs in the Boston area came up out of Todd’s shadow such as Barbara Lynch (No 9 Park.), Chris Menke (Basil’s) and Paul O’Connell of Chez Henri, a spot cooking up French American cuisine that sits between Harvard Square and Porter Square and is on our list of places to visit in the near future.

This was my first trip to Figs in Charlestown, MA.  There’s also a Figs located in Beacon Hill and there’s one inside LaGuardia Airport in New York.  The location in Charlestown is right down the street from the historic Warren Tavern on Main Street which makes for a great after dinner drink.  For those unfamiliar, this part of Charlestown is quaint and has a real historic charm to it with street lights resembling a scene right out of a Charles Dickens play.  This charm is carried over into Figs, however, the one draw back is the space available for those waiting for a table.  From people walking in for take out, to those just sitting up at the bar, there isn’t much room for those waiting to sit, especially when it’s crummy outside.  With nowhere to go, we had to stand and make the patrons already sitting down feel awkward as we peered down at their plates.  Luckily for us we had a reservation and were seated within minutes.

One of the first things I noticed was the choice of music.  We heard bands such as Huey Lewis & the News, Hall & Oats and also some Boss.  While I personally enjoy all three of those artists, I found it to be a bit out of place.

The wine list was fair but we were all feeling the hops so we ordered three UFO’s and one Octoberfest from Harpoon.  Nothing crazy to report about the Octoberfest this year from Harpoon.  It’s a stand up Marzen with a not too bitter taste which is something I notice often from other Octoberfest brews.

We didn’t go all out so we skipped appetizers and went straight to ordering four varieties of Figs’ quintessential flatbread pizza.  The four we ordered were the “Red Sox”, Four Cheese, Fig & Prosciutto and Portobello.

Before the pizzas came out, we received some bread and olive oil for dipping.  Upon first bite, I noticed that the bread had a few loose strands of caramelized onions.  These onions would make an appearance later in our main course and were perfectly caramelized with the sweetness melting in my mouth and combined with the extra virgin oil made for a perfect pairing.

The first pizza to come out was the “Red Sox” and the Four Cheese.  The Red Sox had roasted red peppers, caramelized onions, sweet sausage, tomato sauce and mustard aioli.  Out of all four pizzas, this was my least favorite.  I couldn’t quite put my finger on it but I think it was the combo of the tomato sauce and the mustard aioli that didn’t sit with me.  I think I’ll stick with the Sausage Guy on the corner of Landsdowne and Brookline Avenue.

The Four Cheese came with mozzarella, fontina, herbed ricotta & provolone.  Underneath was a tomato sauce and drizzled on top was basil oil.  This was a winner on many accounts.  Four cheese pizzas have a tendency to be over greasy but this one managed to have just the right amount of grease without any overkill.  The herbed ricotta was layered perfectly on top of each slice and left a refreshing aftertaste along with the basil oil.

The next pizza included the Portobello with a wild mushroom puree, roasted red onions and fontina cheese.  I enjoyed my slice and the added puree was a good choice as it helped counteract the strong flavor of the red onions.  But far and above the winner of the night was the Fig & Proscuitto (served alongside the Portobello).  On top, you have the prosciutto, gorgonzola cheese and slices of juicy figs and on the bottom is a crisp rosemary crust with balsamic jam!  Balsamic Jam?  Impressive.  This is just your classic sweet and sour mix, perfectly executed right down to the last bite.

My final verdict at Figs is that I need to go back for seconds.  It’s clear that some of their combination’s are out of this world but like any innovator, you’re bound to fall flat.  You can easily hit or miss here such as with the “Red Sox” but I would say that the majority of the time you’ll be satisfied.

For a quick, low budget option, Figs is a perfect desitnation.  It’s also a perfect destination for take-out.  Take it from my girlfiend’s co-worker who popped in to Figs just as we were being seated.  During the brief conversation, Amanda asked if he was here meeting someone, he said, “No, just picking up my order.  I live in Medford but I’ll make the trip to Figs just about everytime I want takeout pizza”.  If you’re a pizza snob (like me), you may want to rethink your option before picking up that dial to call that “average, only thing close” pizza shop.

Tags: Pizza